A bleeding heart coagulates

At the Green Festival a couple of years ago, I wandered through a fair trade coffee display and picked up a free copy of Julia Alvarez’s A Cafecito Story. It is a literary “eco-parable” about the ravages of free trade and the benefits of fair trade. Better for the campesinos, better for the environment, better for your conscience, it argues.

I’ve since given it away or contributed it to a book swap, but I recall one scene in the book in which a Dominican coffee farmer who raises a delicious, pesticide-free product drinks a cup of cheap instant coffee. He is reduced to this sad state because he is paid so little that he can’t even afford to drink his own wonderful and life-giving joe. This concept is used a lot in fair trade arguments, pulling at heart strings and appealing to pampered Americans’ guilt. They can’t even drink a cup of their own coffee! They can’t even have a bite of their own chocolate!

At some recent moment I can’t put my finger on, this argument ceased to have any punch for me. I was probably cooking for clients at the time. I shop and cook for hours at a time and my food comes out pretty damn good. (I base this not on my own judgment but on the fact that clients have called and emailed me just to describe in detail how knee-trembling my food was, where they ate it, who they shared it with, and how they wish they had ordered more). But I don’t eat it myself. Continue reading

Here cow cow cow!

Glory be! The future is here! The FDA has said selling products from cloned animals is okay. You only have a few months before “consumer anxiety” abates and the USDA figures it’s okay, too. Pretty soon the public will be ready to munch away, oblivious of whether their burger is from a cloned animal or not, but we’re not there yet.

What’s going to win them over? Probably the heaps of compelling evidence that’s it’s all good. As you can see from the article, the FDA spent six long years tracking the safety of cloned animals. That’s like a third of the natural life span of a dairy cow and 1/12 the lifespan of a human being–plenty of time to thoroughly monitor the effects of raising and eating clones. Now that schools are doing away with the idea of natural selection, why shouldn’t food producers? It’s all part of a trend toward innovation and a new world.

Well, I guess meddling with genes has a few proven problems… and there are some problems with this specific decree, like the fact that it flies in the face of public opinion and every animal rights organization doesn’t like it and Congress has asked to wait for more studies… but I’m not deterred. We must embrace the brave new future of food.

Go go goji!

Yes, it’s another post about China. I promise I’ll stop soon!

Dried wolfberriesIn China, many of the teas include bright orange-red berries. They float on the surface like cheerful buoys and, unlike most tea ingredients, are tasty enough to munch on when you’ve drained the cup. During the Shanghai trip, I kind of pointed and grunted to indicate that I liked them (I didn’t know what they were called in either English or Chinese). H somehow remembered this and miraculously a package of them materialized in my hands a few days later.

It was only just now that I decided to look them up. I had a hunch that they were goji berries and a Google image search confirmed it (they’re also known as wolfberries). A look at Wikipedia, without which no 20-something’s research would be complete, revealed that these berries are quite good for you. And then I discovered that they can go for a pretty penny.

Now I’m curious how much that 8- or 10-ounce package cost in China…

Two cultures separated at birth?

Jiu Ma cooks up a storm

A version of this post is also at The Jew and the Carrot. I am officially a Jewish foodie writer!

As yet another chunk of lamb careened toward a dinner guest, the scene at that Shanghainese table started to feel very familiar. At that point in my two-week trip to the city, I had seen the Chinese version of Jewish Geography, discovered that latke-like potato cakes are a staple of Shanghai’s street food, and received motherly offers of housecleaning and space heaters.

As H’s aunt’s chopsticks moved from serving plate to individual bowls, clunking down pieces of meat in front of people who she thought should eat them, I decided something that I’d been pretty sure of all along—that eating Chinese food on Christmas is not the only thing that bonds Jewish folks with our friends in the Far East. Continue reading

To keep you reading

Aha! Here’s more for you, if my previous post isn’t enough. If you haven’t already registered at NYtimes. com, better go for it. Then check out these articles:

A friend passed along this article, which has Michael Pollan at the throat of factory farming again and looking at what “sustainable” really means.

Then there’s this one , a video/photo essay about shopdropping (the opposite of shoplifting) at a Whole Foods in NYC. I don’t have speakers on this computer, but it looks interesting. And there’s a related article.

Chopstick check-in

I have a few minutes of free internet here in Shanghai and decided to check in. The experience here has been very gratifying, especially in the culinary arena. At least 95 percent of my photos are of kabobs and tofu and scallion bread grilled on the street, various sea creatures, food markets, tables full of food, restaurants and teahouses, and funny English translations of what exactly it all is.

Eating Chinese food in the States, as most astute noshers know, is not much the same as sitting down to a Chinese family dinner or even going to a Chinese restaurant in China.

When I return home, I plan to try my hand at some of the Shanghainese dishes I’ve been eating, post a few recipes, and invite friends (dear readers in the D.C. area, be warned!) over for a Chinese dinner. But if you can’t wait for that, here are some ways you can eat like I’ve been eating for the past week:

– Arm yourself and your guests with only chopsticks and small ceramic bowls.

– Prepare part of the meal beforehand, but keep that part in the kitchen.

– When everyone is hungry and ready to eat, go out to the nearest market for 10 grocery bags full of fresh vegetables, fish, noodles, eggs, and perhaps a live chicken or two.

– Saute each of your fresh ingredients in a wok with plenty of peanut oil. Sprinkle liberally with salt.

– Begin eating each dish as it comes out of the kitchen, piping hot.

– Don’t be shy. Reach around people to grab a mouthful of the newest dish, pour yourself tea, pour other people tea, and spit out unwanted shells or bones right on the table (or, if you want to be more polite, in your ceramic bowl).

That is all! Until next time, happy New Year from Shanghai!

Mock lox

As a Jewish vegetarian, I have to admit that one food has tugged at my lacto-ovo resolve: lox. It’s so tasty, and so available at so many Jewish functions. As fish, it already puts me on the moral fence, on one side doubting that a salmon’s level of consciousness is really that high and and knowing that the fish industry is a model of sustainability compared to factory farms, and on the other side knowing that the tasty, coral-colored stuff on that platter was once a salmon flitting through the water and leaping in the crisp Alaskan sunshine.

So I’ve always faced a conundrum when it came to lox… until now. The other day I discovered smoked dulse, and a smokey, savory, dilemma-free heaven opened up. Dulse is a sea vegetable (now that I see what it can do, wouldn’t dare call it a weed) that I already loved to snack on or sprinkle on popcorn. Then, it seems, some brilliant individual decided to smoke it with applewood. The smoked dulse has the same iron-packed goodness as regular sea vegetable with an added yummy flavor.

Here’s a spread I worked up that satisfies my lox tooth without the moral bite of eating fish:

Loxless Spread
Makes enough to schmear 2-4 bagels

4 oz. cream cheese or neufchatel cheese (1/2 a package), softened

Generous 1/4 c. smoked dulse, lightly rinsed and chopped

1 small clove garlic, minced

Small slice of pickled beet, mashed, or a few drops beet juice for color (optional)

1/2 carrot, finely grated, for color and more substance (optional)

Bagels

Capers, cucumber, tomato, bell pepper, and/or thinly sliced red onion

Combine cream cheese, dulse, garlic, beet and carrot (if desired, to achieve a lox-y color). Mix well. Serve on sliced toasted bagels garnished with capers and veggies.

Enjoy!

The market for your palate

Image:Moneybillscoins3.jpgTyler Cowan, author of Discover Your Inner Economist and a professor of economics at George Mason University, came to DC a little while ago.

The fun thing about Cowan, according to my friend Alok who became riveted by the guy’s speech, is that he applies his normally snored-at field to everyday life, giving an economist’s perspective on falling in love, job searches, and—yes, you knew this was coming!—food.

Cowan’s talk was on part of his book dealing with food and how economics can help you determine the best restaurants. In the Washington environment, where the buzz and the scene at a dining establishment can mean even more than what it serves, I was interested in what Alok had heard. Continue reading

If Pythagoras had been a chef…

The Joy of Cooking is hiding things–ancient secrets that it does not deign to share with the general public. But I’m on to them.

For instance, the other day I noticed something in their flan recipes. The JoC recipe calls for a caramel made with 3 parts sugar and 1 part water and then a custard with 5 eggs, 3 cups of milk, and a few other things. It served 8.

Then I decided to make coffee flan and checked the recipe for that. Replacing 3/4 c. of the milk with strong coffee was the only change, with the 5 eggs, 3 cups liquid, etc. all the same. This recipe, JoC says, serves only 4 to 5. Continue reading